Past, Present and Future by Cath Conroy…
Posted in guest quarters July 29th, 2010 by pia

(the following post was written and photographed by (blog)house guest Cath Conroy…)

I have a confession to make. I am one of those people who perpetually lives life in the past or future. Like most humans I have a tendency to focus on where I’m going rather than where I am right now.

My partner* on the other hand is content to while away an entire day lying in the grass, staring at the sky and thinking of nothing but cloud gazing. He is the poster child for Eckhardt Tolle. Me – always worrying away about time I’ve wasted, bills to pay, where I’m headed next and who I’ll be in the future.

The great thing about travel is you have to go with the flow. Trains late, hotels booked out, wrong turn – you really can’t do much about it but let go and enjoy the moment for what it is.

I have been promising to dig up these photo’s of my travels in Japan for Pia for ages (thanks for your patience Pia!). What struck me as I looked through them was how at peace I was in the moment.  They hold a special place in my heart and I can still feel the sense of stillness and contentment that I felt whilst taking them. A good reminder to stop and smell the roses and appreciate all the special moments I have here in my new home.

* A funny note about the term partner. The other day I was visiting my physio for the 4th time who finally felt appropriate to ask what “she” does for a living. Apparently boyfriend is the more common term here and partner is reserved for the gay community. Not that I mind but sigh, another faux pas on my list of living in a new country!!

Spain. Cadaques – part four (a photo story).
Posted in guest quarters December 10th, 2009 by pia

all text and photography below by cath conroy

I was born near the ocean in Australia on the “gold coast”. Then we moved to the country in central queensland (almost the outback). It was very dry, flat and very very hot. Then when I was a teenager I moved to a small city.
Recently I’ve started to examine the impact on how the places we’ve lived shape who we are. I never realized until I moved to a foreign country how much an impact my physical surroundings have had on me. I think I’ve been pretty blessed to have experienced a myriad of experiences in different landscapes.
However all throughout my life I’ve always had a strong connection to the sea. Whenever I’m stressed, down, tired or just plain down and out its the first thing I visualize in my mind and the place I find myself yearning to escape to. Strange these connections we have – some may put it down to the comfort and memory of childhood but I think its more than that. I only lived for a very short time near the beach but its so deeply ingrained in my soul. I often wonder if other people feel like this? As I’ve started to delve more into the places I’ve lived I’ve realized I feel lucky to have such a strong love and respect for warmth, heat, sand, ocean, bush, trees, grass. Its part of being Australian I suppose with all that space and nature (I’m sure Canadians could relate to me here and uncannily a place I really want to visit).
I’ve written alot lately so this time – for my final part of my travels in Spain – I thought I’d leave you with a photo story of Cadaques. We only spent the day here but it was such a beautiful and memorable day.

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Spain. The Pyrenees – part three
Posted in guest quarters December 2nd, 2009 by pia

It’s that time of year. The days are getting shorter and darker as winter steadily approaches. Don’t get me wrong I’m really looking forward to Christmas and the festivities that go along with it (the streets are already aglow with wonderful twinkling lights). But as the days are grey and rainy here in Amsterdam and I prepare for my first “proper” winter, I can’t help but think of escaping. Sometimes I have a fleeting sense of wanting to turn back the clock – just one more week of blue sky and soaking up the sunshine!

It’s probably normal (tell me it is!) and as the year winds down most of us are looking forward to a rest and relax. Since I’ve done a lot of moving around this year I’ve committed myself to staying still for a while – pottering around in my first real home in almost 8 months since my partner and I uprooted our entire lives for adventure and change traveling the world. It’s blissful to do all those things I once took for granted – framing photographs, buying knick knacks, drinking endless cups of tea staring at the canal below my window and getting to know our beautiful new city on bicycles.

Every so often when I hear of exotic travel plans or visits abroad my heart gets restless and I get that wonderful feeling of anticipation. Looking at Pia’s amazing pictures of Canada this week reminded me of the deep connection to nature I felt in the Pyrenees mountains earlier this year. For me this was a truly magical place and I can’t wait to go back and explore more. Right now whenever I miss the smell of fresh air and greener than green trees I simply take a wander down memory lane…

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“I’ve got a great idea”. Sometimes my day begins with this sentence. I’m lucky I’ve got a great partner (thanks Al) who embraces my sometimes-ambitious. borderline crazy plans. And so this is the way it began in Figueres, northern Spain. We were enjoying a leisurely few days in the birthplace of Salvador Dali with our new found freedom in a hire car. “How about a little roadtrip?” I suggested, “Its not far to the border of France”. In order to get back to Spain and return the car we somehow decided to do a roundtrip and include the Pyrenees Mountains. It certainly was a lot of driving – we drove up to France into the Pyrenees from the French side, onto the Spanish side where we stopped for 2 nights before returning to base camp at Figueres. Phew! But the fresh air, the countryside, the mountains.. aah it was bliss.

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One of the nice things about not being in a hurry is being able to detour along the way. Once we got over the border into France we stumbled upon many gorgeous villages. Being right on the border of France and Spain meant most were bi-lingual and this transpired to food as well with a lovely mix of french-spanish cuisine. We took the opportunity to gather supplies along the way and had a wonderful impromptu picnic of fresh bread, cheese, nuts, cured meats and juicy nectarines to finish. Delicious!

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It was a long and winding road to the top of the Pyrenees Mountains. It really felt like we were in a fairytale winding up and up and up to the peaks above us. No Jack and the Beanstalk at the top but the sense of exhilaration was well worth it. The crisp fresh air and mountains dotted with villages made me feel instantly relaxed.

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In our long term travels people often asked me where we stayed or how we managed to budget for that many months away. It mostly depends on two things 1. availability last minute 2. the type of traveler you are. This wasn’t a backpacker trip for us and so we mostly did a mix of small hotels or pensions and the occasional splurge with a last minute price. For this mini-trip I wanted something romantic and cozy and was lucky enough to stumble upon a small hotel – formerly an art nouvea mansion on Pulgcerda Lake (in the village of Pulgcerda). It was absolutely blissful and we had a luxurious stay eating, drinking local wine, spa baths and wandering leisurely around the beautiful lake right on our doorstep.

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Of course the point of driving all this way wasn’t to stay inside so off we went exploring. I’ve often heard people describe the feeling of peace and spirituality in destinations like Machu Picchu (I’m dying to go here!) and I can’t say its exactly the same but I felt such a sense of happiness and freedom high up in the Pyrenees mountains. We found countless charming villages and took long invigorating hikes along pristine streams. The Pyrenees for me was one of those places that puts things in perspective and reminded me its important to stop and enjoy the moment. Sometimes there is a bigger world out there than the worry and day to day that fills our lives. Its just making the time to see it!

text and photography by cath conroy.

Spain. Montserrat and winery – part two.
Posted in guest quarters November 23rd, 2009 by pia

After almost 5 weeks in four international cities (Hong Kong, Amsterdam, Paris and Barcelona) we were well and truly ready for a country escape. A popular day trip from Barcelona is to Montserrat Monastery. This Christian abbey is located high atop a winding road (or hair raising cable car ride) in the Monserrat mountain range. The jagged peaks clustered together are a peculiar formation that make for a breathtaking site.

We decided to hire a car and take our time meandering through the countryside. Allowing ourselves 3 leisurely days meant plenty of time for exploring, impromptu picnics, hiking and taking in that fresh country air we’d so been craving.

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I’ve got a confession to make – I’m a self proclaimed planner and organizer! One of the reason’s we decided not to pre-book any of our trip is to allow ourselves the freedom to be spontaneous. Now I’m not going to lie, when this turned pear shaped I often found myself tearing my hair out wondering where we were going to stay next. Luckily for us this was one of the times it paid off. I found this gorgeous little boutique winery tucked away at the base of the Montserrat mountain range complete with a gourmet restaurant serving local cuisine. Best of all, being summer – when most Spaniards head to the beach to escape the sweltering heat – we had it virtually to ourselves. Care to take a look around?

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I have a penchant for good design and this tiny hotel was one of those places that got the details just right. From the vibrant yellow building that contrasted so well with the surrounding  lanscape, to the rich earthy tones inside. Arriving somewhat weary from the heat we were greeted with the lush, strong smell of wine wafting from the basement barrel room  (and really who wouldn’t feel uplifted by that smell?).The materials used inside the hotel are not only synonymous with a winery – concrete / brick walls, heavy wooden doors – but enhance that wonderful feeling of entering a soothing cocoon of relaxation. DidI mention the 5 star room, complimentry wine and a spa to boot? No wonder I slept like a baby. (I should also note these guys use solar heating and water purification – an eco friendly bonus).

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After a good nights rest we set out for a morning stroll. Wandering amongst the vineyards, marvelling at the plump grapes and enjoying the quiet countryside was the perfect way to start the day. There’s something so fresh and invigorating about working up a healthy apetite in the country so we were delighted to discover breakfast served on the sunny deck overlooking the mountains. In fact the view was so mesmerizing before we knew it breakfast became lunch and relaxing with a book became watching the sunset with a chilled glass of wine. Oh how time flies when you’re doing nothing! You can forgive me for getting a little distracted by this wonderful little find? I hope so!

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We awoke early refreshed by the previous days relaxing ready for our leisurely drive. Lucky for our early start as the winding road did not exactly endear me to this excursion. I was glad for 2 things: 1. We could keep moving for there was no traffic and 2. I didn’t catch the daunting cable car (having vertigo). Once at the top of the mountain I could breathe a sigh of relief and we enjoyed the lilting sound of the early morning hymns as we wandered around. The importance of this site lies in the “black virgin” statue that is housed in the Basilica. Said to be carved in 880AD it is visited by millions of pilgrams every year. After wandering around the grounds, and tasting the monks frangelico we were ready to explore the surrounding mountains.

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The freedom of taking our time made our day truly special and we were glad we didn’t have to rush to get back on a bus or a train and fight the traffic. Our afternoon was filled with – a picnic lunch, a wrong turn down a dirt road to discover a beautiful abandoned church, conversing with some local children in our bad Spanish (ok they laughed), taking pictures, enjoying a stroll though a deserted hiking trail and finding ourselves in the middle of a tiny village drinking icy cold cerveza at sunset. The idyllic end to the day and our little adventure in the countryside! Did I tell you we fell in love with Spain? Wait til I show you where we went next…

all photographs and text by Cath Conroy.

Spain – Barcelona, part one.
Posted in guest quarters November 17th, 2009 by pia

Hi there Everyone! My name is Cath Conroy and I met Pia recently as a fellow Aussie girl in Amsterdam. Boy it was nice to hear a familiar accent and discuss our love for photography and travel.

In April this year I took a 5 month round the world trip with my partner. I’m a photographer so it was a delight to capture all the beautiful things I saw and Pia asked me to share some of those experiences here. Since its ever raining here in sweet Amsterdam I’ve been craving some sunshine. Care to take a trip down memory lane with me? These pictures make me feel like Dorothy in Wizard of Oz. Click click and off I go to warmer horizons…

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Barcelona is a city with soul. Step out onto the street and you can’t miss it. Colourful buildings, the tiny tapas bars, the sizzling heat, flirtatious locals and the sound of glasses clinking punctuated by vibrant Spanish voices drifting out onto the street. Barcelona is often coined a party city and its easy to see why. The energy is palpable.

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Not only is the vibe relaxed but the city itself is well laid out and easy to get around. The streets are wide and rambling in places (ok I had just come from Paris so space was a novelty) and full of tiny alleyways and local squares when you step off the beaten path. Take your time, prepare to get lost and step out of the heat into one of the tiny bars and cool yourself down with an icy cold cerveza – beer – and tapas. Its no wonder the people are always smiling.

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Of course one of the main reasons to visit Barcelona is the late great architect Antoni Gaudi and you can’t get far without reference to one of his great buldings. Posters, postcards, books – every corner store has hordes of Gaudi mania. The first building we visited was Casa Mila a residential building completed in 1912 by Gaudi for a wealthy couple. The flowing form and beauty of this building for its time is simply amazing.

The second visit was to the unfinished masterpiece Sagrada Familia. This Catholic Church has been under construction since 1882 and its not due to be finished until 2026! This begins to make sense when you get a glimpse of the sheer scale of the building. Although covered with cranes and construction its still a breathtaking site. I did feel tinged with sadness that he died before seeing his greatest work completed!

Gaudi’s love of nature and his clever way of referencing this within the building is beautiful and the detail is just mind blowing. The inscription of letters on the doors were a highlight for me.

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What’s really evident whilst wandering around the streets of Barcelona is just how much art and architecture really have made their mark here. The influence of Art Nouvea mixed with modern street art and graffiti are a colourful melting pot of ideas and somehow this eclectic mix seems to work.

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All that walking and inspiration will definitely build an apetite and there’s any number of food options to try. One of our favourite outings was to wander the markets.

You can buy cheap fresh local produce and take it back to your apartment and whip up a casual meal. Or if that’s not possible there’s plenty of food stalls, tapas bars and local restaurants within the market area. The large markets La Boqueria can be somewhat touristy but lots of fun all the same. The display and quality of the produce was amazing. After a while we realized all the locals were coming in from the back alleys rather than the main entrance.This is where you’ll find the quieter bars and restaurants!

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After a relaxing week in Barcelona walking, eating, taking pictures, going to the beach and exploring, last on my wish list was Gaudi’s Parc Guell. This park complex on the outskirts of the city was a highlight. I am obsessed with Gaudi’s tile work and so this was a highlight for me – it didn’t disappoint. The detail in them is simply stunning. The flowing design of the park make it an easy and relaxing wander and the architectural elements everywhere are a subtle homage to nature. Gracias Mr Gaudi!

all photographs and text by Cath Conroy.

circles of mystery
Posted in guest quarters October 29th, 2009 by zoe

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There’s a village nestled somewhere in the chalk downs of Wiltshire in the south west of England. As a village it is unremarkable – undeniably picturesque and very cute, but there are hundreds like it all along the rambling country lanes. In other respects, however, this particular village is unique indeed.

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The stone circle at Avebury is the largest henge and stone circle complex in Britain. The village itself winds through the monoliths – many of the missing stones were broken up and built into the very fabric of the village itself.

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The circle itself is more than 5000 years old. The henge – bank and ditch – is considered the first stage of the structure, and is over 400 metres in diameter. The outer circle of large sarsens originally consisted of 98 stones, some up to 40 tonnes in weight. Within the large outer circle are two smaller circles, one with a cove (a u-shaped configuration of 3 stones) at its centre, and one centred by a single huge stone, weighing up to 100 tonnes.

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The Avebury circle is … well, awe-inspiring. Despite the ominous atmosphere provided by darkened skies, photos don’t do justice to the drama of the scene that confronts you when you see these stones in person. The circle is accessible – unlike Stonehenge, here you can walk amongst them, touch them, feel dwarfed by their shadows. The view across the downs from the top of the henge is dramatic, and the mystery surrounding the stone’s existence within this idyllic landscape is tangible.

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The circle and henge are part of a wider prehistoric landscape. Stretching out from the henge are two sarsen-lined avenues, the West Kennet Avenue and the Beckhampton Avenue. In the hills nearby lie the enormous man-made Silbury Hill, with its distinctive flat top, and the West Kennet Long Barrow, where the remains of up to 40 burials were uncovered, dating back between 4000 and 5000 years or more.

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There’s more mysterious phenomena to be found in the hills surrounding Avebury village than the Neolithic human influence. Every summer, Wiltshire experiences the overnight appearance of those enigmatic creatures known as crop circles. Often more popular with the tourists than the stone circle itself, the mysterious patterns appear in the summer-ripening wheat and corn fields, prompting many an irate farmer to destroy the evidence before the field is trampled by a horde of curious travellers. Regardless of which theory you ascribe to, the reality of a crop circle at ground level is a decidedly anticlimactic experience – they are simply too large to be able to appreciate without the benefit of distance – as the many small aircraft overhead can attest to.

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Whatever your circle interests – whether Neolithic or mystic – this amazing place is full of atmosphere and mystery, with plenty of unanswered questions to fire your imagination. Enigmatic and inexplicable, Avebury is one place that will continue to fascinate long after you leave its physical presence behind.

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photographs and text by zoë yule

anthropologie, london
Posted in guest quarters October 23rd, 2009 by pia

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It’s no secret that Anthropologie have something of a cult following in the blogosphere, and those of us not lucky enough to have visited a store in person have been left to gaze in envy on posts featuring stunning window installations and drooling over the luscious website (with its not-so-luscious overseas prices). So you can imagine my reaction when Pia received an invitation to the opening of the first Anthropologie store outside of the US and asked if I wanted to attend in her absence! The new Regent Street store, in a beautiful building in the retail heart of London, is 3 floors of eye candy, with so much to see and so many beautiful details to drool over, I spent an hour just looking before I even remembered to take photos! The prices sit mostly towards the higher end of scale, especially for the clothing and larger homewares items, but there are still reasonable items available, with enough scope to enjoy your visit and take away a little something as a treat.

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While I recognised much of the clothing and homewares range from the website, I was overwhelmed by the number and scale of unique art installations decorating the store – most are from local British artists, and I was thrilled to discover they were all for sale as well! From beautiful handmade ceramic vessels to “knitted” pots and antique, reclaimed quilts refashioned into beautiful works of art, every corner was simply bursting with something surprising and handmade. It’s a distinctive philosophy of the store – to marry unique pieces from local and international artists, with vintage and antique items collected from all over the world to create a fabulous environment to compliment the apparel and homewares collections. Each store is unique and evolving all the time – the centrepiece of the Regent Street store is the amazing living wall – covering one entire wall of the shop, a total of 200m2, the patchwork of living plants is a stunning installation, and is even fed through a sustainable irrigation system which uses rainwater collected from the roof! It formed a fabulous background for the mouth-watering array of tea cakes and sandwiches on offer for this quintessentially English “afternoon tea” event, and I can assure you each and every one tasted as delicious as their appearance promised. And yes, I did try them all.

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The event was a wonderful opportunity to see the store in its full glory, accompanied by champagne and yummy cake, and all-in-all I had a great time. I managed to walk away without too large a dent in my wallet (no discounts unfortunately!) and with some great images which I hope capture some of the atmosphere of this unique store. I even met one of my favourite fellow bloggers, the wonderful Susannah from Ink on My Fingers, and her sister Abby. The Anthropologie team have done a great job in bringing a unique independent boutique feeling to a retail chain – very different from the modern, bland and sterile-feeling establishments that populate the rest of Regent Street – the wonderful dyed teabag installations in the windows are an indication of what awaits you inside. Its definitely a fun shopping experience that is worth a trip if you’re in the area.

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all text and photographs by zoë yule